I have a dining table and chairs,supposedly mexican wood,its light in colour,unvarnished,unstained,ive been on a few forums relating to wood protection,im not looking to colour the bare wood,or indeed varnish it,it would take me forever to do the table and chairs and my diy capabilities are minimal,its more the table top id like to protect from scratches,scuffs etc I was advised to use a matt varnish which i may do just on the table top,also use Olive oil to feed and protect the wood as you do with these wooden chopping boards
Just interested to know if any other forum members have other alternatives?
Indoor,missed that out in description
The colour of unfinished is different to the colour of treated wood.
If you dampen a piece of cloth and wet a hidden bit of the wood, you will see its true colour, as the dampness dries it will return to that which you have now.
wee eddie yes it does,
fourm member,i take your point but would matt varnish show up scratches? i can understand gloss varnish doing so
If it's a dining table in use, it will soon become stained with various substances spilt on it and ring marks from glasses etc. and be difficult to wipe clean each time after a meal.
A good quality matt clear polyurethane varnish will provide protection. You can try a dab underneath/out of sight to see what effect it will have on the finished look.
Or you could purchase a piece of clear acrylic sheet to fit over the tabletop, I have seen these in some cafes. They put them on top of tablecloths so it doesn't get soiled.
Lotvic,thanks the matt varnish option seems to be the best way to deal with this
Actually, wood will protect itself, all you need to do is to scrub it with soap and water.
A nice wood will look good for 200 years or so. Central Heating is more dangerous to it than dirt.
For projects like this, I tend to look on Ronseal, Dulux or the local French Polisher/Furniture Restorer for help and advice. Have you tried any of these for advice?.
For dining purposes you'll need to use a matt or satin finish varnish. Anything else will fail, unless you are meticulously careful with hot plates and glasses, etc.
If you are very careful you could use clear Briwax, which will provide a beautifully rich, satin finish on bare wood....after four or five coats. The problem with wax polishes is that you need to keep applying them, and after some time you'll get a build up that discolours. When that happens you have to strip the wax back and start again. It's the way to do it if the wood is very beautiful, or very old, otherwise use varnish as follows:-
Wash and sand the table top to remove all traces of dirt and grease. Apply two coats of varnish (the first one will be rapidly absorbed by the timber), and allow them to harden for a few days. Then 'flat' the surface with fine sandpaper, rubbed very gently over the surface with the flat of your hand. Do it very gently, as otherwise you'll see circular sanding marks like faint scratches in the finish. You're aiming to de-nib the surface without removing the varnish coat. Wipe the dust off thoroughly with a damp cloth, and allow to go bone dry before applying a further coat of varnish. Repeat the exercise twice more, allowing hardening times between coats. Your final coat will leave a superb, deep finish that will last a very long time.
Apply the varnish using the best quality bristle brush you can afford, and work rapidly along the length of the grain. Apply the next coat across the grain, and so on, finishing with the final coat along the grain. This prevents banding in the final appearance.
N.B. Hardening is different to drying. The varnish will be dry to the touch within hours, but hardening takes much longer. If you try the flattening process before the varnish is hard you'll drag the surface, and a perfect finish will be impossible.
Just completed a similar project and have coated the top with five coats of Rustins Danish Oil. Extremely simple to apply, only need a cloth and each coat taking about 20mins to apply then leave for a day before next coat. Just follow instructions on tin. With regard to heat resistance I was always told "if you can't hold it, don't put it on bare wood". The danish oil has a satin finish.
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