How does one fix a fold down shower seat to a tiled stud partition wall?

  Brumas 23:04 10 Dec 2014

I managed to obtain a brand new Mira Fold Down Shower Seat, still in its wrappings, at the Salvation Army Harvestfield Furniture Project in Berwick for the princely sum of £3. Not bad considering the cheapest one I could find, after a quick check on the internet, was £78!!

Our old shower seat has seen better days, it was installed along with the shower 13 years ago, so I thought I would have a go at fitting this myself. The problem is it needs to go on a tiled stud partition wall in place of the old one - I didn’t watch the fitter when he fitted the old one so I do not know what method he used.

The fitting instructions state it must be fitted to a solid wall (brick or high density concrete block) but can be fitted to other wall types if advice is sought from a competent builder - hence my posting.

What is the correct/best method to use, i.e. what fittings etc? I am reasonably competent but I am no Barry Bucknall!

  bumpkin 23:38 10 Dec 2014

As the old one was OK use the same fixing holes if possible. Something that will be sat on must be fixed directly to the timbers supporting the wall.

  BT 08:22 11 Dec 2014

From the picture it would appear that the seat doesn't have legs and just screws to the wall, so will need strong fixings and will be need to be fixed to the studs.

My shower seat folds up flat to the wall but also has legs which support it in the down position. Its fixed to the wall panels of the shower (not tiles) but because of the legs only needs normal screws to hold it (about 5 I think). I don't think I would be happy about an unsupported seat.

  BRYNIT 08:48 11 Dec 2014

Remove old seat to see how it's fixed.

If identical bracket and in good condition fit new seat on old bracket.

If bracket needs replacing and holes are in the same place, refit new bracket/seat and use some type of adhesive to lock bolts into place.

If fixing holes are bigger or smaller or in a different place it's more complicated.

  bumpkin 09:12 11 Dec 2014

It is quite possible that whoever fitted the original seat put in some addition timbers for fixing purposes. The height of these will be apparent from the existing holes so even if the new holes do not match up with the old you may still find a good fixing.

  Brumas 09:18 11 Dec 2014

Thanks guys, you have given me lots to think of. The seat is the one in Jock1e's link and the holes do not line up so I will have to have a good look-see before I embark on any plan of action. I will probably leave it until after Christmas as I have a lot going on at the moment.

  john bunyan 09:58 11 Dec 2014

You can buy a gadget that can be set to detect stud timber or eclectics.

Some can be quite cheap. See

Amazon stud detectors

  john bunyan 10:01 11 Dec 2014

Eclectics !! no - electrics ! (Thinking of ILTP!!)

  spuds 11:03 11 Dec 2014

"the holes do not line up"

Depending how far the holes are out, would it not be possible to do a slight modification to the seat.

In the end, I suppose it all comes down to the weight the seat is expected to support, and what is behind the original fixtures.

  wee eddie 13:51 11 Dec 2014

Don't even think about it unless you know the exact layout of the wall beneath.

Even the puncturing of the tiles might allow water into the material covering the Studs, or whatever they're called, this will call it to swell and the tiles will drop off.

  bumpkin 14:41 11 Dec 2014

Another point to consider before drilling willy nilly is the location of any pipework within the wall.

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