Mouse Features ?

  Furkin 11:51 11 Feb 2013

Hi guys,

Here’s a silly one for you. Altough this is for TV use, it equally applies to PC use.

I have just bought a cheap wireless mouse for my new toy - an android mini smart tv dongle thingy,,, (first time for me).

I'm not a gamer and I only need 3 buttons - the others get in my way. I bought this cheapo thing which just arrived - I hate it. I chose it for its design and the 'fact' that it’s a Laser (an issue I have now taken up with the seller).

As it’s for the bedroom TV, it won't get used a lot - hence cheapo price paid (false economy as usual).

1/ This thing says Laser in the listing (so it must be true,,,, right) but I have no idea what Laser is, or how to tell the difference between laser and optical & now I see Blue spot, Blue other etc. 2/ It also says 800/1600DPI switchable. Just what difference should I see between 800 & 1600 DPI ? What does DPI do, as far as meece are concerned ? (the switch on this thing maks no difference, but I put it down to the value of the item)

3/ The shape is terrible – but at least I learned something – don’t buy slim-line meeces.

4/ Main complaint: After 20 years of PC’s, I now need a bigger mat. I have to move this thing 8, 9, 10 inches to get the curser across the screen. I’m slightly disabled (not the meeces fault,,,,) but my other rodents only need to be moved within my 2, 3 inches to do the same job. With my old ones, I just rest my wrist on the edge of the mat, and it stays there. I can get all over the screen just by wiggling my hand. This new one though, I have to lift my hand and drag it across the mat edge to edge. In all my years on computers, I’ve never seen or used such an item.


My wired mouse - on the desktop machine - is a cheapo: PC-Line FL1 ‘laser’. It’s the best mouse I’ve ever used. It doesn’t show up red at the lens. It was also supposed to be 1600 DPI, which it might well be – but again, what difference should that make ?


My 3rd one is a wireless Logitech – model unknown – which came with a laptop. It is also a laser (no red light) but I have no idea of DPI. It is also as good as gold. When in use, I can’t tell that its wireless,,,, but then, I only use it for ‘computing’, not gaming. I suspect that might make a difference to others.

Sooooo, I need to dump this slim-line carp, and get something else.

What exactly is the DPI for with these things ? So what difference is there between 8000, 1600, 2600 DPI ? I have just read that Lasers don’t have a red light – but opticals do. I have seen dozens of rodents on auction sites – other buying options are available – that list them as Lasers, when in fact they are Opticals.

I’ll wait for some answers to the above before I buy the next one – so should know a bit more about what to look for: DPI, laser etc.

Not life threatening – and after all these years, I really ought to know the answers.

Cheers all

  Nontek 12:26 11 Feb 2013

Read this ...

I use a Cordless Optical Mouse with adjustable DPI (Dots Per Inch) 1000/15000/2000, I find the lowest setting to be best for normal everyday use.

  Nontek 12:27 11 Feb 2013

PS - there are No silly questions, though some answers might be a bit strange :-))

  Chronos the 2nd 13:02 11 Feb 2013

Basically, the higher the dpi, the faster the response of the mouse. fps gamers tend to prefer higher dpi in order to quickly move about the screen with less physical movement of your hand but its a personal preference thing.

I bought a Logitech M210 wireless mouse/keyboard for use when using the telly, don't use the keyboard much but the mouse is fantastic. My HTPC which has the wireless dongle plugged in is a fair bit away from the mouse plus it is on my left side and the mouse is on the right. I love Logitechs stuff particularly there mice. I have a MX518 and its brother the G400 and they are great mice.

  lotvic 13:09 11 Feb 2013

4/ Main complaint: instead of moving mouse 10" just move 2" to left then lift off mat whilst moving back 2" to right and rest mouse back on mat, repeat as necessary.

  Furkin 13:29 11 Feb 2013

Thanks guys,

I knew DPI meant Dots Per Inch, but not how it related to meeces. I've obviously taken them for granted over the years. Its only when you get a bad un, that it makes you wonder !

Nontek: I wonder iof that link is quite old. It talks of DPI as low as 400 etc.

Chono-2: Yep - looks like this is where Logitech excels.

Lotvic: too much hassle. Never needed to do that before, apart from when I had mucky balls !?

Since writing I've looking on auction sites & there are dozens and dozens that list them as Laser Optical. It isn't till you read ALL the bumff that you actually find out what they are. I was about to say "I don't know why sellers don't just put the truth,,,", but that would deplete half of ebay !

I'm a bit wiser now,,,,,,,,,,,,,

thanks to you all.


  Furkin 11:35 17 Mar 2013

emphasized textAm still searching for that perfect (if cheap) mouse.

I’m looking for one for possibly duel roles. I have just bought my first Smart TV-Dongle – which also requires a mouse. It might make sense to have 1 mouse for both – as they will never be needed at the same time – as long as both uses are compatible. Should they be ?

My search was for:



USB (a)

3 buttons (b)

Nano receiver

up to 1600/2400 DPI

normal shape etc.

(a) What’s the difference / pros'n'cons between USB and Bluetooth – in every day use ?

(b) For computing, I only require 3 buttons. As I'm slightly disabled, I find that extra buttons on the sides tend to get in my way. Any idea if I might need more than 3 for the TV-Dongle thingy ?

On top of this, I now see BlueTrack. I’ve read some of the blurb, but like all of them, they only point out the best bits.

In real life terms, are they actually better than Laser ?

Should there be much difference in use between a TV-Dongle & computer, as far as a mouse is concerned ?

I’m currently looking at a couple on Amazon,,,, as long as their ‘Laser’ technology really is Laser & not Optical !?

Cheers folks

  Chronos the 2nd 11:50 17 Mar 2013

a) What’s the difference / pros'n'cons between USB and Bluetooth – in every day use ?

Depends, I tried a Bluetooth to control the PC whilst lying in bed watching a video and the connection was ropey, it was fine if I was at my computer desk as the PC that has the Bluetooth dongle thingy was reasonably close so no problems. So for me it has to be USB.

(b) For computing, I only require 3 buttons. As I'm slightly disabled, I find that extra buttons on the sides tend to get in my way. Any idea if I might need more than 3 for the TV-Dongle thingy ?

My logitech MX 518 and G400 and Mionix Saiph 3200 all only have a couple of extra buttons which I never use and I am a gamer.

(C)Should there be much difference in use between a TV-Dongle & computer, as far as a mouse is concerned ?

Short answer no.

Can you post a link to the smart TV Dongle?

  Furkin 13:59 17 Mar 2013

Hi Chronos

This is the item on ebay: 251231231514.

I bought wrong I think; well, if I knew what I was doing, it might have been different.

To get this up'n'running, you also need:

Mouse - wireless (&/or keyboard)


USB hub - probably powered - to take mouse plus flash/hdd

HDMI gender changer etc

It worked out dearer than I expected. As usual, I should have bought a kit that had all the bits included.

As I say, tis all new to me and I've only had it running once, just to see how it worked. I now have a PSU, gender changer, and a usb hub (non-powered 4-way). I was after just a 2-way splitter, but they seem a bit thin on the ground - at least usb 2 or 3. I'm sure I previously bought some bare usb plugs/sockets, but I have a no eyed deer where they are now. I was going to get some more, but it works out expensive just to make a splitter.

I gotta get round to trying it again now, & leaving it in situ. I'm going to make a little 'shelf' to put it on along with the PSU, 13amp socket, connections/cables etc, to make it look a bit tidier.

This is for my bedroom TV, which fortunately doesn't get used a great deal. My lounge TV is still a Toshiba 36ZP48 CRT - with limited ([email protected]%) interface, and picture quality – but runs like a dream. I can't wait for it to pack up !

  Chronos the 2nd 14:33 17 Mar 2013

Hmm not really any the wiser. But I cannot see anywhere that says these things need a power supply or a some of the other bits you have mentioned.But looking at this it seems that you may well be right.

Could you not have just connected your PC to your TV, perhaps not as I see you are talking about a bedroom TV.

  Furkin 15:17 17 Mar 2013

Ah,,,, You've hit the nail on the head.

I argued with the seller, that he should have made it clear on his listing, that other items are needed. He insisted that people buy them "as a starting point,,,, cos most people have mice, power supplies etc" !? I got a bit of refund, so it goes towards the rest.

I wrongfully assumed:

1/ that a dongle would be powered by the unit it was plugged into – like usb.

Apparently, some (?!) smart TV’s do have an outgoing USB, giving the 5 volts of power at the required amps [2000 m.Amps in this case]. Mine TV doesn’t have a usp at all, so PSU was required.

I had intended to plug it into the hdmi on the edge of the TV, but the framework prohibits this. I have to use a cable + gender changer.

2/ As the dongle comes with USB ‘A’ & USB micro socket, that this was ample for mouse and flashdrive,,,, not realising that the micro one had to be used for powering it – hence usb hub/splitter.


I did connect the lappy to the TV once – via hdmi, but initially had a problem getting the audio to work (posted on here somewhere). I s’pose I could have used it, but I want a dedicated unit in the bedroom, so that when I’m ill, I don’t have to faff about moving computers around etc. I’m trying my damnest not to use the room if I can possibly help it.


The list of meeces that Amazon sent me has a couple that might suit. But being Amazon, I’ll have to get them to confirm that they do have exactly what I want before I buy.

I think the only thing I want to know about before that, is the BlueTrack items & capabilities.

All the best for now

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