Alienware 17 R4 2017 review
Hi, anyone fall for the thermostat myths exposed here?
Or have any heating tips they'd like to share, too?
Why is it, that nearly every time you see adverts about these type of money saving ideas, there is nearly always some elderly person wrapped up with extra padding and smiling.
We had a new combi boiler fitted about twelve months ago, which most member's will possibly know about. And this is a beastie that is still proving hard to understand over the previous 'conventional' boiler's that were installed. We have the various thermostat's set at about 21 degrees, which we find suitable for our daily living environment, yet the service engineer states that the boiler should be set on 'ECO', which to me, doesn't provide the hot water or heat we need.
I suppose everyone's different, and if you can afford it, why not use it!.
My SIL seems to think that if her radiators (which have TRVs fitted) aren't hot the heating is not working. The question as to whether she is warm enough doesn't seem to come in to. My bro has given up arguing with her.
"Myth or Fact I do not know but I was always told to turn heating down to say 15 and run it 24 seven and it would work out cheaper than turning it on and off at certain times of the day."
Being a 'thermostat jockie', and turning the stat up and down throughout the day is not really the way to manage a heating system. Thermostats read air temperature (or water temperature, in the case of a cylinder stat) and will cycle a boiler on and off to maintain the temperature they were set at.
A hot water cylinder stores water, and if it is well-insulated it will keep water hot for quite a long time - left overnight the water will still be pretty hot in the morning, and may only require a quick burst from the boiler to get it back to your preset. A cylinder stat should be set at the required temperature, and then left alone.
Ditto a room thermostat - set it for the temperature you require, and leave it alone - let the system timer tell the boiler it can fire when the room-stat calls for heat. All you need to remember is that the boiler will fire for a long time if it has to raise the room temperature from stone cold, so during a cold snap you might want to change the programmer from auto to constant, and turn the room stat down - say to 15 degrees - so the boiler cycles away during the night, and prevents the house from cooling completely.
When you go away you can turn the stat down to 10 degrees, leave the programmer on constant, and relax in the knowledge that your boiler will fire occasionally to stop the house becoming a giant fridge. Most modern boilers will have an integral frost-stat that will override everything and fire the boiler if it senses that the temperature inside the casing is getting near freezing point. That way it saves you from the horror of a flood and a wrecked boiler if the weather turns really cold, and you aren't around (or awake) to do anything about it.
Remember that your room stat senses the air temperature where it is - don't expect it to fire the boiler if the temperature in the hall is right, even though you may be freezing in the bathroom. That's the reason most room stats are sited on the wall in the hallway - it's the part of the house that is more likely to cool rapidly.
Thermostats are just switches - you decide the temperature at which they will call the boiler for heat. The programmer/time clock tells the boiler if it can respond by firing, and you decide the times when it can do that.
What is your opinion of the Heatmiser? I've been considering it myself.
service engineer states that the boiler should be set on 'ECO'
the boiler will heat a small amount of water and store in the boiler, will cycle on and off to be sure this hot water immediately available for use.
Switch to ECO stops the boiler doing this, thus saving fuel but you have to wait for the water to warm up.
you also have to wait (in any case) for the cold water in the pipework to be pushed through before the warm water reaches the tap.
Because my kitchen is far from the boiler seems to take awhile for hot water to come through.
If you have a simple electric extractor fan turn it on when the wind is on that side of the house, otherwise you simply have a hole in the side of the house.
This morning I had a strong NW gale blowing straight into the bathroom.
"If you have a simple electric extractor fan turn it on when the wind is on that side of the house"
Or get a shuttered vent that closes when the fan isn't running.
I know that there are differing opinions on their siting but I've always thought that the downstairs hallway seems not to be the ideal place. Heat rises so it goes upstairs and it takes ages for a hallway stat to reach its set temperature, while the upper floors get overheated. When we moved to our current bungalow the stat was in the small room off the hallway near the front door with the result that the room heated up quickly as it was small and the stat cut off while the rest of the place was still cold. Had the system overhauled and the stat moved to the sitting room, result the place we spend most of our time is at the correct temperature and the rest of the place seems to be at a fairly even temperature.
If you ever find that you get cold in bed ~ Get a Memory Foam Mattress.
Some people view the effect below as a problem but, in my opinion, it could be regarded as a considerable money saver.
They do not absorb your body-heat but recirculate/reflect it back to you. This effect can be minimised in summer by the use of an under-blanket. I use a second under-blanket in the Summer to reduce the heat return even more and have reduced my ambient bedroom temperature to below 15'C, all year round.
*"Because my kitchen is far from the boiler seems to take awhile for hot water to come through."*
I agree with what you have said, what I find surprising is the amount of water that is wasted, before the water at the tap becomes 'hand warm', certainly not over warm or hot. Our boiler is located in the kitchen, and the uphill struggle to upstairs seems to be a problem if set to ECO. Even with the advice of the service engineer, we will not use the ECO device on the boiler, because it doesn't match our daily needs.
The combi system we had installed on the recommendations of the heating expert, in my opinion just doesn't seem able, and seeing neighbours having their same make and model combi boilers replaced after only 2/5 years makes me rather surprised. Lucky for them and possibly me, the warranty periods are for five years or more, depending on the installer's agreement with Worcester Bosch.
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