Alienware 17 R4 2017 review
I've been working on an engine rebuild recently on a non running car that I bought a few months ago. The MoT expires in Jan 2011.
The rebuild is complete, but the car has a few other issues, notably brake pipe corrosion and the front discs need replacing. If I was an MoT tester (which I'm not!), I would fail the vehicle. Regardless of that I've put it in for MoT anyway, mostly because I want the car checked over for any other issues that I may have missed.
The question is this: If the car fails its MoT test tomorrow, but its current MoT doesn't expire until Jan 2011, can I legally drive the car until then?
Just to add to FE's reply, as I understand it, if you were stopped by the police, the MOT database would show a valid certificate as MOT failures on are not on the database.
Of course, morally let alone legally,it would be unfair to drive an unroadworthy vehicle.
While an MOT certificate is valid for 12 or 13 months, it doesn't necessarily mean the vehicle is roadworthy, and as such your insurance company would have taken care of that in their policy wording.
Un-roadworthy might equal no insurance cover.The same might apply if the vehicle is not taxed.
Regarding the MOT certificate, that is usually for 12 months, but you can get an MOT one month earlier (13 months). If the vehicles present MOT is not due till Jan 2011, then the MOT station will most likely do a 'new test', with failures 'to be done', before a valid certificate is issued. With a possible re-test charge.
If you just want the vehicle checking for faults, then have a word with the MOT station. Driving a failed vehicle on the road, could leave you liable.
I have a friend who owns a garage and MOT station, and it wouldn't be the first time that he as arranged a recovery vehicle for a failed vehicle, or a customer as left a vehicle for a scrap company to collect. The other alternative is to get the testing station to do any repairs, if they do repairs. A word of warning, it as been known to fail vehicles so that 'expensive' repairs can be undertaken.
Apologies for being so glum on the subject?.
An MOT pass certifacte would only protect you from being chraged with driving an unroadwrthy vehicle for 24 hrs when I was in the force.
After that it's down to you to make sure the vehicle is legally fit to drive everytime yu take it out.
"it's down to you to make sure the vehicle is legally fit to drive everytime yu take it out."
That includes all of you that think blown bulbs only need changing on the morning of the MOT. A pet hate of mine...
You can never legally knowingly drive a car with corroded brake pipes, even if the MOT has 11 months and 30 days to run.
Take the car in and explain you want a pre-MOT check, the garage concerned will then run a series of checks and come up with a list of TO DO faults.
If any are of such a serious nature that they consider the car to be unroad worthy then you can NOT drive the car on the road legally, your insurance will be invalid for one thing.
Just one question, why haven't you replaced the brake pipes and disc's if you know they need doing, they aren't expensive, the whole lot will cost less than £100 to replace.
Thanks for your replies everyone. I take your points on the difference between having an MoT and having a 'safe' vehicle - the two are not necessarily the same thing, but both are (or at least should be) a requirement for taking the car on the road.
Steel brake pipes do corrode and the vast majority of cars have steel brake pipes. The question is more to do with the depth of corrosion and the pipes capacity to maintain structure during emergency braking. A caution was issued with the cars last MoT specifiying 'heavily corroded N/S/R brake pipe", but the car still passed. Looking at the pipes now, they look to me to be past a safe level of corrosion.
carver: I don't have the equipment to bend and flare replacement pipes; it's easier for me to let the garage do it. Whether that's done pre or post MoT fail makes little difference to me. The discs I'll do myself if they fail. The garage will charge a great deal more than £100 to replace them. Parts cost alone is around £60 and they'll charge around 90 minutes labour + VAT. They're pretty close to the limit at the moment and may not fail. That's not to say I won't change them, but considering the amount of work I've already done on the car I'd quite like to give it a shake down for a few miles before spending even more!
Personally I would do all work that you know needs to be done. You may find that it passes its MOT with a note of what may need looking at saving a return trip and cost.
This thread is now locked and can not be replied to.