I can see you have put in a lot of hard work, and what a fascinating subject!
You have one of the key ingredients of a successful web site straight away - an interesting subject.
You might consider the following suggestions; they are just that - suggestions - so please don't be in any way discouraged, you've made a nice job of your first site.
1. Kill the hit counter? I have a personal aversion to them I admit. I can't see what useful purpose they serve. You can get statistics from your host, and they'll be far more detailed than just a tally of hits. Nothing brands a site as "amateur" more than a hit counter.
2. Use a smaller font size for body text - say 8 point - in conjunction with the next point.....
3. Lay out the content in tables with columns. Look at the way a newspaper page is laid out, or take a look at the BBC news site
The look of your site would be improved dramatically, given this treatment. You can scatter small images in separate table cells, and with a bit of experimenting you'll see how you could make the site easier to read - without having to scroll the pages into the bargain.
4. Justify text left, rather than centre, in the table cells - it looks very much more professional.
5. The blue background is a tad bright in my opinion, although this is very much a personal thing. I like white backgrounds as a rule, with the colour coming from images - lots of them.
Finally - don't link to pages that have no content. Nothing is more of a let down than clicking on a link to a picture page, only to see no pictures. It's better to have a little box saying "Coming soon - and then an announcement about the other pages. Leave the pages unlinked until you've filled them.
As I said earlier - your site is just fine as it is, but with a little tweak here and there I think it could have real impact - I wish you luck with it, and if you want help with the order form let me know.