Zalman Reserator XT Corrosion, help needed.

  Epirb406 19:16 04 Aug 2009

Hi all, I think this is the right place for this post, if the mods feel differently then please feel free to move me!

I recently bought a Reserator XT on Ebay, second hand. I have been in a fair amount of correspondence with the old owner so I believe what he tells me.

The unit was bought in June 2008 fitted sometime later and then used for 8 months. It was filled with deionised water and the supplied Zalman coolant.

When I received it I did a full strip down, the unit was really very dusty.

I then found that the water block was completely clogged with blue gunk from the coolant, the tubes were very blue too and the quick release couplings were a bit crusty.

I then stripped down the reservoir and found lots of corrosion and blistering in the anodising. It looked like it had been filled with hot salt water!

All the photos are here: click here

You can see the clean up and the damaged anodising as well as the clogged block.

So, here is the question, do all Zalman reserators do this after 8 months of use? Do any of you have experience or pictures? Am I alone with these symptoms? The way it is looking it will be substantially bare alloy within a year.

This is not a zalman bashing thread, I don't at this stage need advice as to alternatives or even to some extent reasons for it happening, what I need to know is 'Do they all do this??'

If they all do this then I put it right and carry on, if it is from a bad batch I want to gather evidence before going off to Zalman.

Many thanks for reading and I look forward to your comments,

Brgds, Epirb.

  I am Spartacus 20:19 04 Aug 2009

I've read that the Zalman coolant additive can lead to a build up of a thick blue paste and takes a lot of flushing out.

Possibly if the anodising was damaged then there could have been galvanic corrosion (assuming it's a copper waterblock).

I've noticed a build up of the coloured dye used in my system from Feser fluid and despite a lot of flushing haven't managed to clear it all. I haven't noticed any corrosion though in my aluminium reservoir though.

  GaT7 20:22 04 Aug 2009

Have you informed the seller about your findings? If yes, what was his response?

I would send it back for a refund if I was you. Did you pay via PayPal?

And please re-post your photo link as it cannot be accessed. G

  Epirb406 21:15 04 Aug 2009

Hi, thanks for reading,

Try this link: click here not sure why there was a problem....?

The coolant is definitely a suspect for the clogging but what about the corrosion, it is supposed to be an inhibitor?

My cooling block actually looks all stainless steel with copper cooling pimples internally.

Yes, as I said I am in touch with the previous owner and I actually don't think he knew about the internal problems, the unit was less than a year old and not performing as he expected so he sold it, I was the one who pulled it apart and since I haven't tried it in a working PC yet I can't say that it is not fit for purpose.....

  I am Spartacus 22:40 04 Aug 2009

I can't really tell from the photos but could the corrosion actually be the blue gunge sticking to the interior of the reservoir unit or can you see where the anodised finish has come off?

  Epirb406 07:44 05 Aug 2009

Hi, this: click here is one of the best pictures to see the damage, it is after the clean up.

The white areas front and back are corrosion through to the alloy. the white spots on the bottom of the reservoir are burt blisters, also through to the alloy.

Hope that clarifies,

Brgds, Epirb.

  I am Spartacus 10:05 05 Aug 2009

Only thing I can think of is to get in touch with Andy at QuietPC. They're the offical UK distributors for Zalman and I've always found him very helpful.

click here

  Mr Mistoffelees 19:31 05 Aug 2009

It occurs to me that it might be a good idea to use car anti-freeze, rather than the Zalman fluid. Car radiators are mostly aluminium and very thin but, they last for many years with the corrosion inhibitor in anti-freeze.

  I am Spartacus 20:03 05 Aug 2009

I think you'd need to thin it down a bit otherwise it might cause problems with the already unreliable Zalman pump.

You better off with Feser or similar for the anti-algae properties.

  Mr Mistoffelees 20:01 06 Aug 2009

I wouldn't suggest using anti-freeze undiluted but, thinned as per manufacturers instructions.

  Epirb406 09:35 27 Sep 2009

Thought that I would just check out on this thread, let you know what my personal thoughts are and hopefully help those that come to search in the future.

Remember, these views are mine only but I shall lay out what I think I have found.

Quiet PC were more than helpful to me and sent me out a good few bits and pieces to get me going and help out, amazing since I not only didn't buy the kit from them but also bought it second hand. This is what I think I found:

There is no difference between deionised and distilled water.

The anodising on the reservoir on the XT is thin and not up to the job of protecting the alloy from warm circulated water.

The principal culprit is the Zalman OEM coolant, the blue comes out of the coolant and crystallises in the system leading to sludge and lumps which clogs the cooling blocks and attaches to the bare alloy. I don't know if that adds to the corrosion but personally I think it does.

For people like me who want silent computing, are prepared to do a bit of homework and fiddling, the Zalman Reserator XT is a beautifully engineered elegant solution. For committed overclockers it is not where it is at!

As I say, just my thoughts, hope they are of use to passers by, thank you for every ones help, especially the guys over at the Tech Spport Forums,

All the best, Epirb.

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