electric underfloor heating

  gibfish26 17:29 25 Oct 2008
Locked

hi all,
does anyone have installed the albrite ribbon underfloor heating mats,if so how do you find it,i-e energy use. i installed this in my conservatory in september 2007 and on my first bill for october 07 to january 08 it put over £200 on my bill,my running costs dont come anywhere near those quoted by the company,and i followed their instructions for installation to the letter,i think the fault lies with the thermostat but they wont admit to this being a problem,being on low pensions and the way energy has shot up we are scared to use it,any info would be much appreciated thanks.

gibfish26

  Forum Editor 19:23 25 Oct 2008

but in general terms electric underfloor heating is never going to be economic to run if you try to use it to heat a room. It's ideal for tiled bathroom or kitchen floors, where you simply want to take the chill off the cold tiles, but if you use it as the primary source of heating a space it will inevitably be expensive.

It's essential to place insulation boards beneath electric heating mats when they're used on a concrete floor, otherwise you'll waste money heating the concrete.

Where have you sited the thermostat?

  spuds 21:55 25 Oct 2008

It might pay to contact your local council or Age Concern who might have advisers for energy savings.

Our local council had a very good energy advisory section for many years. But due to the increase of workloads, the council could not longer afford to support the project and the section was closed. Typical council progress and methods :O((

  gibfish26 10:42 26 Oct 2008

F E,
thanks for response,i did a lot of internet researching and forums before purchase and it was a very well recomended system as a primary heat source,the companys quoted figures of 1.5 pence per 10 square mtrs of floor per hour,my floor is 12 square mtrs.the stat is positioned 1.5mtrs up the wall as per companys recomendations,i also followed their advice and installed double layer of insulation.the problem i think lies with the stat it will not go down below 15dgrs when on economy,so if it is freezing outside the heating is running 24/7 and thats the problem,just had a new condensing combi fitted under warmfront scheme and the thermostat for this will go down to 0.5dgrs therefore switching off.
gibfiss26

  gibfish26 10:49 26 Oct 2008

hi spuds.
as you can see from my response to F E just had new boiler installed under warmfront scheme,who did a energy servey and found no other issues,but i am now waiting for another servey to upgrade my loft insulation which at 100mm is not up to standard,as i used up all my warmfront grant having boiler installed i will be paying towards the cost of this.many thanks.

gibfish26

  Forum Editor 10:51 26 Oct 2008

Your Combi has inbuilt frost protection, so it will fire automatically if the temperature at the thermostat point drops to near freezing, even when the programmer is in an off mode. That's to protect the system against freezing.

Your underfloor heating thermostat doesn't go below 15 degrees because it doesn't need a frost protection. The lowest temperature that you are likely to want to maintain is 15 degrees - any lower than that and the average person (when at rest) starts to feel cool.

  oresome 13:06 26 Oct 2008

Are you using the heating 24 hours per day?

Whilst 15 degrees is likely to be the minimum acceptable temperature whilst using the room, I can't see the point of trying to maintain this temperature overnight or when the room is unoccupied for long periods.

The response time from underfloor heating is probably too long to only turn it up when in the room, so I would suggest using it as a backgound heat, supplemented by another faster source when required.

This will mean changing the thermostat for one that goes to a lower setting.

  silverous 20:46 26 Oct 2008

Can you not program the thermostat to come on only at certain times? Our underfloor heating has two modes - manual (where you set a temperature and it stays on that 24 x 7) and timed where you set a time to come on at and a temperature at that time, then a time to go off. It sounds like you are using the former. Can you fit a new thermostat that is more programmable ?

  silverous 20:50 26 Oct 2008

This is the thermostat we have:

click here

  howard64 08:53 27 Oct 2008

a conseratory is going to be colder than a normal house unless of course it has been very specially built. Electric heating will always be more expensive than a gas or oil boiler. Using your figures the cost per quarter for running 24/7 should be about £35. If they quoted those figures and it is for the same cost of energy you are on then you probably have a case against them. As an ex London Electricity Electrician who at times worked for the investigation branch to sort out strange large bills etc. I would look for a fault somewhere causing a current to flow but not really producing much heat. I once found an immersion heater shorting to earth through the water which caused a small amount of warmth in the water but not enough to trip the thermostat. An rcd would have stopped this instantly. So try turning this heat off and most other things and see if your meter is still spinning.

  gibfish26 13:36 27 Oct 2008

hi,
oresome and silverous you are both close to understanding my probs,when stat is in auto mode i set to come on and go off twice in one day i-e in the morning and in the afternoon,when its on its in comfort mode with temps from 18-21dgrs,when it turns off it goes to economy mode,but because this will not set below 15dgrs its running all time as its not acctually turning off.
thanks gibfish26

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